Foodies in Majestic Coron, Palawan Province, Philippines: A Serial Traveler’s Recent Gastronomic Sampling

Coron: A Reference Overview

“On a daily basis, some 1,500 tourists arrive in Coron largely by sea and 17 airline flights from Manila and other regional centers.” That was the statement of Michael G. Sadhwani, the jovial former Municipal Councilor who chaired the Committee on Tourism, Culture and Heritage when I chatted with him in January 2019. The statistics are quite spectacular because, as if by a magic wand’s flick, Coron (Figure 1) has been transformed from a sleepy fishing town into a vibrant and bustling tourist center over the last 30 years. More recently, there is virtually no more distinction between peak and lean seasons for tourists’ arrival.

Coron as the gateway to the Calamianes Group of Islands (CGI) in Palawan Province, the Philippines, is famously known for its spectacular tourist attractions such as Kayangan Lake (Figure 2), Mt. Tapyas, Siete Pecados marine protected area (MPA) and sunken Japanese ships during World War II. In addition to Coron, three other coastal municipalities (Busuanga, Culion and Linapacan) constitute the so-called CGI. Coron as a municipality is actually situated within the main island of Busuanga. It is bounded on the north by Mindoro Island’s Apo West Pass, on the south by Cuyo West Pass, on the east by Mindoro Strait, and on the west by the Municipality of Busuanga. 

As the CGI’s trading center, Coron is the most economically-progressive among the four municipalities (see Box 1 on how to go to Coron). Most of the business and infrastructure facilities are located here such as dive shops, grocery stores, hotels, restaurants and souvenir stores. Slowly, it is shifting from the traditional capture fisheries towards an ecotourism-based economy.

While first-time or occasional travelers to Coron in particular (and CGI in general) may be able to obtain free information from foodies on the internet – as well as the printed materials provided at the airport/seaports and tourism office –  they may need to spend some time surfing and filtering some of the information that they need. I have visited Coron at least 10 times over the last 20 years for various chores – and have done bits of gastronomic activities on the side particularly during my two recent trips: June 2018 and January 2019. Hence, this article provides an experiential reference about samples of possible dining places within Coron’s Central Business District (CBD). 

This write-up may be useful to travelers whose main purpose is either work assignment or business transaction with limited socialization time on the side – having only between one to three days to spare. Sample relative and/or published rates are likewise provided. To simplify the computation, I used the exchange rate of 1 United States Dollar (US$) equals 50 Philippine Peso (PHP).

A Rejoinder on Gastronomic Activities

All foodstuff in Coron’s licensed restaurants and dining establishments are fit for human consumption. In fact, even grilled meat products (such as pork barbecue and roasted chicken) in the streets (Figure 3) are generally safe to eat. Moreover, the fruit juices and/or shakes in the stalls are likewise suitable to drink.

Students and those travelling on shoe-string budget may survive with these street foods. Simply told, if you are neither picky or choosy, you could survive by meals of street foods and/or grocery foodstuff for between US$5-10 per day. Travelers are advised to exercise caution when partaking grilled seafoods on the street, though, as these foodstuffs may have been exposed to some impure elements. Bottled water, if not filtered or purified water, is likewise recommended to avoid any water-related ailments.

A word of caution about the cost of food, if not a budgetary warning: Coron is not a cheap place. (Others even claim that it is the most expensive place in Palawan Province!) This is because most of its foodstuffs are imported from Metro Manila or neighboring provinces, if not directly sourced out from mainland Palawan. The only exceptions are freshly-caught seafoods and limited home-grown vegetables and agricultural products. Hence, don’t be surprised (or get angry!) if your restaurant bill will be higher than the prices of restaurants in the upscale town of El Nido or the capital city of Puerto Princesa.

If you have free time and enjoy leisurely long walks, I recommend that you traverse the primary national highway (also referred to as Coron – Busuanga Road). It’s relatively safe walking at night, and the atmosphere is quite different as the dusk sets in and the street lights and those of dining areas are switched on. As you traverse the stretch of national highway – from the port area until Coron hospital – you will see a variety of dining places serving Filipino dishes, western foods or fusion cuisines.

Below is a list of restaurants that I have actually dined out for at least once (see Box 2). The list is in alphabetical order, and does not in any way reflect the quality of food or degree of importance. Moreover, for lack of writing space (and not in any way intended as an exhaustive review), I only provided brief descriptions of these dining places. Most are situated along the above-cited Coron National Highway and are actually within walking distance from one another. You may easily Google the exact location of each one of them. You may also ask direction from the tricycle drivers, or simply inquire with the ever-friendly passers-by. For convenience, I have divided the eating places into four arbitrary categories: (1) breakfast, (2) lunch, (3) dinner and (4) desserts.  These are not necessarily mutually exclusive as one restaurant may provide everything – meaning all kinds of meals and drinks.

Breakfast Options

At the first meal of the day, you want to be properly nourished or be able to eat in a home-like atmosphere. Thus, I prefer to eat breakfast at the poolside in Darayonan Lodge or at  its  main dining hall called Raphaella’s Restaurant.

The word Darayonan originated from Palawan’s Cuyonon dialect, which means ‘a place to stay’. I have stayed there for more than 50% of my travels in Coron, and what I like most about it is the homey atmosphere. Most of the guests who dine there are families. As you partake your meals, comfortable amenities and friendly staff (a few of them I have known over the years) make you feel as if you have not really left your home.

This establishment serves the typical silog (meaning egg-based) breakfast, which is a combination of egg (fried sunny side-up, scrambled, boiled or as omelet) with rice (alternatively, sliced bread) plus either fish or meat as the main course. Each silog meal costs about US$2. My favorite is dangsilog, which is the fried marinated danggit (rabbit fish) served with egg and rice (Figure 4). Occasionally, I take the cornsilog or corned beef combined with egg and rice (Figure 5). Darayonan Lodge also serves American breakfast of toasted bread with jam and pork ham (Figure 6).

If you are in a hurry for breakfast (or morning and afternoon snacks) and want quick orders – and you don’t like to eat in your hotel or nearby carinderia (small local eatery selling and serving meals), then you can simply go to a fast food such as McDonald’s! Situated along Nueva Street, you can enjoy your full meals between US$2-5.

If you are on a shoestring budget, you can opt to go to the various variety shops – locally called as sari sari stores – in the market area to buy noodle cups or bread from the bakery shops for US$1-2.

Lunch Choices

If you are pressed for time, simply avail of the already cooked dishes costing mostly between US$2-3 (Figure 9). Fried fish such as milkfish (locally called bangus) is readily available. Short orders of sandwiches (US$2) and a variety of pansit or noodles (US$3) are likewise available.

Most set meals of meat or fish cost about US$4 (Figure 10). You can order some specialty dishes ala carte for about US$4-6. Examples include gambas (shrimp sauted in garlic) and crispy pata. Similar to the German Schweinshaxe, the latter dish consists or is made with deep fried pig trotters or knuckles served with a combined soy-vinegar dip.

As reflected in the above menu, bulalo is a specialty of Lolo Nonoy’s Food Station. Thought to have originated in the Southern Luzon region of the Philippines, bulalo is a beef and stock dish. It consists of a light colored soup that is made by cooking beef shanks, bones and marrow until the collagen and fat have melted into the clear broth. Selected vegetables, such as carrots, cabbages and corn are thrown in with the beef for a tastier outcome. 

Another bestseller is a sizzling pork dish called sisig. First recorded in Pampanga Province, sisig is a Filipino dish made from finely chopped parts of pig head (often jowls and ears) that are mixed with liver. It is often seasoned with calamansi (local lemon) and chili peppers. Topped with raw egg, it is served hot in sizzling plate.

Another food destination is Wild Fern. Its interior has an artistic-cum-native ambiance that appeal to young entrepreneurs and professionals. It looks different from the outside though, particularly at night (Figure 11). The artistic interior design of the restaurant makes it conducive for quiet small-group business meetings (Figure 12). Although nearing my senior year, I go to Wild Fern for meals whenever I wish to go for a teen-ager or simply youthful feel.

Most dishes here cost around US$2-4. The food that I prefer eating here the most are sausages. They also serve the delicious mixed veggies – the Chinese chopseuy. The grilled pork (Figure 13) as well as sizzling squid (Figure 14) and sizzling fish steak (Figure 15) are likewise all yummy.

Occasionally, I visit the Garden Resto Bar of CVL or Coron Village Lodge for lunch (Figure 16). Most signature full meals range from US$5-10. My favorites here are pork adobo, sinigang na isda (fish in sweet and sour soup) and pinakbet. Generically, adobo refers to a Filipino dish whereby the meat, fish or shellfish is marinated in a combination of vinegar, soy sauce, garlic, bayleaves and black peppercorns. Then, all the ingredients are sautéed brown in vegetable oil.

Sinigang na isda (Figure 17) is equivalent to tom yam (sweet and sour soup) of Thailand. Shown in the picture below is said dish but this time, instead of going with the usual milk fish (bangus), we went for the red snapper (maya maya), which is a species of coral reef fish. This boiled fish was mixed with ginger, green peppers, mustard greens, onion and tomatoes. Tamarind powder was added to get the zippy taste. Veggies added included beans, eggplant and okra.

Alternatively called as pakbet or pinakbet (Figure 18), this dish hails from the Philippines’ northern (Ilocos) regions, which consists of mixed vegetables steamed in fish or shrimp sauce. The original dish typically includes ampalaya (bitter melon) mixed with other vegetables such as chili pepper, eggplant, okra, string/winged beans and tomato. CVL serves the Tagalog version as the dish which includes kalabasa (squash or pumpkin). The restaurant also provides an open-air ambiance for leisurely lunch with friends (Figure 19).

At the farthest end of the sample foodies is the upscale BAYA Resto Lounge. This is situated within the famous Two Seasons Coron Bayside Hotel, which is already near the main port area. Admittedly, I have visited this restaurant only once. I put the average full meal at about US$15-20.

During that one-time lunch visit though, two dishes stood out in my recollection. First was the sinigang na hipon (shrimp in sweet and sour soup). The second was the lechon kawali (pan roasted pork belly) in heavy gravy. BAYA Resto Lounge provides an ideal atmosphere for business lunch meeting (Figure 20). You also get the bonus of observing the panoramic ocean view of the adjacent Coron Bay (Figure 21). The mild, salty breeze that blows in your direction while bathing in the tropical sunlight is simply refreshing.

Sumptuous Dinners

Literally translated as the little mermaid, La Sirenetta Bar and Restaurant is built over the nearshore supported by concrete stilts. Mermaid images are sculptured in the concrete posts. It has a nostalgic quiet ambiance that is ideal for intimate conversations, being located at the end of a pier (Figure 22). What makes your meal delightful is you partake your food while having a different perspective of Coron Bay. During day-time, you see the picturesque islands as well as bustling tourist and fishing boats. In the evening, you see sporadic lighted vessels from the distance and parts of the CBD with the lighted establishments on the landward side (Figure 23). Such picturesque view and serene ambiance contribute to a memorable dining experience. The sea breeze refreshes your well-being particularly when windy.

There is a wide choice of Asian menu like Thai noodles and western dishes such as the Italian carbonara and spaghetti. It also serves the classic Filipino favorites like pork and chicken adobo. Likewise, there is an array of wines and spirits – both local and imported brands – as well as fresh fruit shakes and juices.

I often visited this place for the sweet crepes that are delightful to wind down your meal. These include Citron (lemon juice, sugar and lemon zest), Belle Banana (with condensed milk) and Tropique (mango, banana, pineapple and honey). My personal favorite is Apple Cinnamon Raisin with ice cream. Prices for these crepes are reasonable ranging from US$4-7. I recently brought my close couple friends from General Santos City to La Sirenetta Bar and Restaurant to sample these crepes (Figures 24).

Having a pier of its own, Busuanga Sea Dive Resort (Figures 25) is adjacent to La Sirenetta Bar and Restaurant by maybe about 100 meters. Due to geographical proximity, they share practically the same view. It is actually a complex of lodging house, restaurant and dive shop. We have stayed there a few times when we did some studies of the CGI’s MPAs. It has an added feature of a rooftop (at the 4^th level) that provides a vantage point of the CBD’s land (including the iconic Mt. Tapyas) and sea sides. You may conveniently bring your hot beverage or ice-cold beer up for an even more laid-back vibe.

The atmosphere in Busuanga Sea Dive Resort, though, is more alive. Moreover, you can freely smoke – a haven for smokers and vapers! If you just want to unwind with carefree chat with friends and colleagues, and like mingling with expatriates, then this is the place to be. It has a big world map fastened on the wall where the diners from overseas pin their countries of origin. After an exhausting day tour, this is among the preferred dining destinations of hungry foreign travelers.

Filipino and western foods are reasonably priced at around US$6 for most main courses. What I particularly like here are sandwich, pizza and pancit (noodles-based food with assorted meat and vegetables). I often ordered the Hawaiian pizza; unlike the typical ham and pineapple combination, it has a variation of having green bell peppers (Figure 26). The 30-minute waiting for such a hot and succulent dish is justified. Overall, you get your money’s worth for the quality of food, friendly staff service and good ambiance. And if you are checked-in, there is free-flowing brewed (yes, not instant) coffee everyday.

Further inland is KT’s Sinugba sa Balay, which literally means grilled in the house. It specializes in grilled meat and seafoods as reflected in the menu (Figure 27). It also serves kilawin (raw fish typically tuna or related species of scombrids marinated in vinegar with spices). Fruit drinks here are varied that include fresh fruit juices and fruit slushy. Both the meat and water of newly-harvested young coconut is an ideal appetizer and thirst-quencher. Alcoholic beverages such as the famous San Miguel Beer and local palm wine called lambanog are available.

This is a good place to hang out if you prefer relatively healthy meals. The place is likewise recommended if you want a more secluded area with informal or carefree ambiance with friends (Figure 28).

If you prefer pizza and pasta, then Trattoria Altrove is recommended as your prime destination. A word of caution, though: be patient. Why? Because there is a long queue of people waiting outside to be seated (Figure 29). It is often regarded as the best Italian restaurant in Coron with a Japanese style setting. There are two kinds of tables: the regular (Figure 30) ones and low ones with cushions (Figure 31). Flip-flops or shoes need to be left at the entrance. Other bonuses for dining there include: pleasant and attentive services from the staff – and clean toilet.

The restaurant is popular and for good reason. The food is delectable – particularly the wood-fired cooking of pizzas and a variety of fresh pasta dishes. It is relatively expensive, though, when compared to other dining establishments. Pasta price starts at US$6 while the price of their cheapest pizza starts at US$7. As usual, I ordered my favorite Hawaiian pizza (Figure 32). My colleagues, though, preferred the Mediterranean (Figure 33): a mixture of artichokes, capers, crushed tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and oregano. Trattoria Altrove – given its partially dimmed lighting – is also a cozy place for a get together with friends and colleagues (Figure 34).

Desserts, Coffees and Teas

Epic Café Coron is a recommended place to go for desserts, coffees and teas. Most hot and cold coffee flavors are reasonably priced at US$2-3. Such include the classic Americano, cappuccino, espresso, flat white, latte and macchiato. Flavored lattes include almond, caramel, hazelnut, toasted marshmallow and vanilla. Tea flavors are Dilmah, Harney & Sons New York and La Maison Du The. Note that they also serve food such as all-day breakfast, burgers, fries, pasta, rice bowls and sandwiches.

Epic Café Coron is simply a nice place to hang out with close friends for intimate but relaxed conversations (Figure 35). They also offer a variety of cakes to choose from. Among their best sellers are lava cake and rocky road cheesecake. Most cakes are priced at US$2-4 range (Figure 36). Staff were helpful and friendly as well.

Figure 36. A variety of cakes at Epic Café Coron in Coron, Palawan, Philippines. (Copyright © 2019 by Michael D Pido)

Tea & Shake (Figure 37) is another place to go for refreshments particularly if you want to go solo. Prices of food and drinks here are slightly lower than Epic Café. The tastes of coffee are reasonable. Fruit shakes, though, are quite good. Moreover, the banana cake I sampled was excellent. Other nice features of this café are: (1) friendly staff; (2) free Wi-Fi; and (3) clean air-conditioned surrounding. If you really want a quick caffeine and dessert, a place to try out is Darayonan Lodge, which is described earlier. At its Raphaella restaurant, you can partake brewed coffee and leche flan (Figure 38), which is creamy but not overly sweet.

Figure 37. Tea & Shake location in Coron, Palawan, Philippines. (Copyright © 2019 by Michael D. Pido)

Culinary Rejoinder

Food is certainly an essential element of every travel experience. The dining out experience and insights that I have shared only show that while Coron does not boast of any distinctive local delicacies or ‘specialized’ cuisine, it more than makes up for a variety of western and oriental dishes, as well as remarkably fresh seafoods and lutong bahay (home-cooked) of a wide range of ever-popular Filipino dishes.

I will provide an addendum to this article of other dining places of interests in the future. I am trying to retrieve my disorganized collection of photos – and the current article is already overly long! In my next foodie blog, I shall describe other equally good dining establishments. These include, but not limited, to the following: The Old House, which I reckon has the best combo of fried chicken and potato chips; Lobster King Seafoods & Restobar, with the tastiest clam soup and juicy slow-grilled squids and other shellfish; and Big Mama’s Pinoy Hot Pot & Grill that serves ‘hotpot’ bowls of various soup-based dishes for fish, pork, beef and shrimp.

Where to dine out is contingent on various factors that include: (1) the types of food that you wish to partake; (2) your preferred dining area’s ambiance or atmosphere, together with the dining crowd’s associated behavior; (3) time available; and (4) certainly budget – how much you are willing to spend. My blog just provides a sampling of the culinary options in Coron –  for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and desserts – that caters to virtually all types of visitors, local and foreign alike.

Acknowledgement: I sincerely thank my good friends and co-workers who have agreed to share our group photos particularly Prof. Fernando Cruz (aka Datu Cabaylo II) for reviewing the earlier draft and Pauleinstein Glev Enopia Gonzales for sharing a photo of One Averee Bay Hotel.

Copyright © 2019 by Michael D Pido